Category: Merlot

  • Bordeaux in focus: Pessac-Leógnan

    Where maritime climate and gravelly soils meet

    My favorite moderating influence in Bordeaux AOC wines takes stage in the left-bank. Proximity to the Atlantic brings rain, the marine layer and a cooling effect to the vineyards. There’s also the sloping, gravelly terroir in Pessac-Leógnan that creates the ideal environment for Cabernet Sauvignon. The soils are well-drained, they collect heat during the day and release it into the roots of the vines at night when the temperature drops. The result is longer ripening and fresh fruit that creates wines with structure and complexity.

    Château Larrivet Haut-Brion

    I picked up a red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot from Pessac-Leógnan, excited to try something from the 2022 vintage. It was a hot year, with extreme heat and drought, combined with 50% less rain than the average rainfall from previous decades. The vines had to work extra hard and dig deep for water. Château Larrivet Haut-Brion, Grand Vin de Bordeaux, Pessac-Léognan AOC, 2022 –not to be confused with First Growth Château Haut-Brion– overcame the hot vintage, and is an excellent example of ripe fruit on the nose and palate that’s still fresh.

    How this looks in the glass: it has a clear, deep ruby color all the way to the rim of the bowl.

    On the nose: clean, with pronounced intensity from primary aromas of red fruits, like strawberry and red cherry. There’s also black fruit in this, like blueberry, spice from licorice, and herbal aromas from eucalyptus and mint. The most surprising aromas came from oak and hints of maturation: I could smell vanilla, cloves and a subtle smell of meat that reminded me of honey-baked ham.

    On the palate: this wine is dry, with high acidity, high tannins creating a drying effect on the mouth, full body, and high alcohol. There’s also pronounced intensity from primary flavors of ripe red fruit, like red cherry, strawberry and cranberry. Complex flavors from oak with vanilla and cloves, and signs of maturation with tobacco and wet leaves remaining in the long finish. The meat aromas were not present on the palate. 

    Conclusion on drinking potential: this is a very good wine with complex and intense aromas and flavors from oak and maturation. The long finish shows the pronounced flavors of tobacco and wet leaves. You can enjoy this wine now while it’s young, or let it age in the bottle. The tertiary aromas and flavors could further develop, and I suspect the high acidity and high tannins will soften to achieve more balance over time.